Free Crochet Beginner Circular Yoke Top Down Sweater Pattern
For Designers,  For Makers,  Free Patterns

Ivy Circle Yoke Crochet-A-Long

Welcome to week one of the crochet-a-long for the Ivy Sweater, designed by Courtney of Tinderbox! We’re so excited to have you and can’t wait to see what colours you choose.

Each week we will be doing a draw for a $20 gift card to Tinderbox’s pattern store (preview patterns here: www.ilovetinderbox.com) for those who post their progress photos on Instagram using the hashtag #crochetershavemorefun

The body of the Ivy Sweater is very basic and incredibly beginner friendly! As you are completing the body you have the option to add surface slip stitches to create a striping effect.

Week one of the crochet-a-long is dedicated to sourcing materials, testing gauge(!!), creating the yoke and trying out the first few rounds of surface slip stitches. Remember that testing gauge is the MOST important part of crocheting a garment to ensure it fits as the designer intended. Taking the time to swatch is always worth it in the end!

Grab your favourite hooks and some worsted weight yarn and let’s get started!

Materials

5 mm and 6.5 mm crochet hooks

Approximately 600 (675, 750, 850, 975) (1100, 1250, 1400, 1600) metres of worsted weight yarn in colour A, and 90 (105, 120, 135, 150)(165, 180, 195, 210) metres in colour B

*Note: yardage will vary greatly depending on how long you make your sweater

Yarn needle & scissors

Gauge

Using the smaller hook – 13 stitches by 7 rows in a 4 x 4 inch square of double crochet stitches, in the round. 

Notes

Sizes are noted as XS (S, M, L, XL)(2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) throughout the pattern unless otherwise noted. Stitch counts are only listed when it changes. 

There are 1-3 inches of positive ease built into this pattern (e.g. if your bust measurement is 40 inches you can expect about 2 additional inches of fabric over the bust).

This sweater is worked in the round, do not turn after each round.

Required Skills

  • Slip knot
  • Chain
  • Slip stitch
  • Back bumps
  • Double crochet
  • Foundation double crochet
  • Decreasing
  • Surface slip stitches
  • Fastening off
  • Weaving in ends

Legend

CH: Chain
SL ST: Slip stitch
ST: Stitch
DC: Double crochet
FDC: Foundation double crochet
rep: Repeat
dec: Decrease

Sizes

Based on adult woman’s bust size:
XS (up to 30 in)
S (31-34 in)
M (35-38 in)
L (39-42 in)
XL (43-46 in)
2XL (47-50 in)
3XL (51-54 in)
4XL (55-58 in)
5XL (59-62 in)

Slip Stitch As You Go

To create the contrast SL STs use the 6.5mm hook and ensure to not do the SL STs too tight or else it will cinch the fabric. It is much easier if you do the surface SL STs as you go throughout the pattern rather than saving them all for the end. 

Surface SL ST around the bottom of the STs along the neckline and after rounds 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 44, 49, and 54 or wherever desired (see photo). Feel free to alter the frequency of the stripes to suit your style!

Free Crochet Sweater Pattern - Surface Slip Stitches

Yoke

Step 1

CH 60 (60, 60, 60, 60)(66, 66, 66, 66). Join with a SL ST ensuring not to twist your STs. <60 (60, 60, 60, 60)(66, 66, 66, 66)> Alternative: use FDC and skip to step 3.

Step 2

CH 2 (does not count as a ST here and throughout), DC into the back bump of each CH around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first DC. <60 (60, 60, 60, 60)(66, 66, 66, 66)>

Step 3

CH2. *DC 2 STs, 2DC into next ST* around. Join with a SL ST <80 (80, 80, 80, 80)(88, 88, 88, 88)>

Step 4

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. Rep this round 1 (1, 1, 1, 1)(1, 0, 0, 0) times. <4 (4, 4, 4, 4)(4, 3, 3, 3) rounds of DCs total>

Step 5

CH 2. *DC 3 STs, 2DC into next ST* around. Join with a SL ST. <100 (100, 100, 100, 100)(110, 110, 110, 110)STs>

Step 6

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. Rep this round 1 (1, 1, 0, 0)(0, 0, 0, 0) times. <7 (7, 7, 6, 6)(6, 5, 5, 5) rounds of DCs total>

Step 7

CH 2. *DC 4 STs, 2DC into next ST* around. Join with a SL ST. <120 (120, 120, 120, 120)(132, 132, 132, 132)STs>

Step 7

CH 2. *DC 4 STs, 2DC into next ST* around. Join with a SL ST. <120 (120, 120, 120, 120)(132, 132, 132, 132)STs>

Step 8

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. Rep this round <1 (1, 1, 0, 0)(0, 0, 0, 0) times. <10 (10, 10, 8, 8)(8, 7, 7, 7) rounds of DCs total>

Step 9

CH 2. *DC 5 STs, 2DC into next ST* around. Join with a SL ST. <140 (140, 140, 140, 140)(154, 154, 154, 154)STs>

XS ONLY Rounds 12-13

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. Rep this round 1 time then proceed to “Yoke Fitting” below. <13> rounds total.

S ONLY Rounds 12-14

CH 2. *DC 9 STs, 2DC into next ST* around. Join with a SL ST. <154>

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST*. Rep this round 1 time then proceed to “Yoke Fitting” below. <14> rounds total.

All Remaining Sizes Step 10

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. <N/A (N/A, 12, 10, 10)(10, 9, 9, 9) rounds of DCs total>

Step 11

*DC next 6 STs, 2DC into next ST* around. <N/A (N/A, 160, 160, 160)(176, 176, 176, 176) STs>

M ONLY Rounds 14-15

CH 2. *DC 31 STs, 2DC into next ST* around. Join with a SL ST. <165>

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. Then proceed to “Yoke Fitting” below. <15> rounds total.

All Remaining Sizes Step 12

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. <N/A (N/A, N/A, 12, 12)(12, 11, 11, 11) rounds of DCs total>

Step 13

*DC 7 STs, 2DC into next ST* around. <N/A (N/A, N/A, 180, 180)(198, 198, 198, 198)>

L ONLY Rounds 14-16

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. Rep this round 2 times then proceed to “Yoke Fitting” below. <16> rounds total.

All Remaining Sizes Step 14

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. <N/A (N/A, N/A, N/A, 14)(14, 13, 13, 13) rounds of DCs total>

Step 15

*DC 8 STs, 2DC into next ST* around. <N/A (N/A, N/A, N/A, 200)(220, 220, 220, 220)>

XL(2X) ONLY Rounds 16-17(18)

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. Rep this round 1 (2) times then proceed to “Yoke Fitting” below. <17 (18)> rounds total.

All Remaining Sizes Step 16

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. <N/A (N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A)(N/A, 15, 15, 15) rounds of DCs total>

Step 17

*DC 9 STs, 2DC into next ST* around. <N/A (N/A, N/A, N/A, N/A)(N/A, 242, 242, 242)>

3X ONLY Rounds 17-18

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. Rep this round 1 time then proceed to “Yoke Fitting” below. <18> rounds total.

4X ONLY Rounds 17-19

CH 2. *DC next 21 STs, 2DC into next ST* around. Join with a SL ST. <253>

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. Rep this round 1 time then proceed to “Yoke Fitting” below. <19> rounds total.

5X ONLY Round 17

*DC 10 STs, 2DC into next ST* around. <264>

5X ONLY Rounds 18-20

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. Rep this round 2 times then proceed to “Yoke Fitting” below. <20> rounds total.

Yoke Fitting

Place the yoke over your shoulders. It should rest just below armpit level, evenly on the front and back. If it is too short, complete more repeats of the last round until it is. We will test this length again after separating for the body/sleeves to ensure the fit is perfect!

If you haven’t already been adding surface slip stitches as you went for the yoke now is the time to add them! To follow the sample design add surface slip stitches around the neckline and after rounds 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 14, and 17 of the yoke. 

That is all for week 1! Check in next Friday for week 2s instructions for the body and to see what prize will be offered. In the meantime, follow along with others’ progress @crochetershavemorefun and be sure to use #crochetershavemorefun to showcase your work in progress and for a chance to win the $20 gift card to Tinderbox’s pattern store!

Happy hooking!

Courtney
Founder, Crocheters Have More Fun & Tinderbox Boss Babe

Ivy Sweater Crochet-a-long Week 2

This weeks instructions are by far the easiest of the weeks – but involved the most stitches. This week we will be working on completing the body of the sweater, including the surface slip stitches.

The first round of the body will separate off the sleeves, the stitches you skip are left unworked until next week when we come back and pick them up to make the sleeves.

You will create chains under each armpit which adds extra maneuverability to the sweater fabric and prevents puckering around the bust. 

It is good practice to try on your sweater after the first couple rounds of the body to ensure the chains rest comfortably under your armpits. If they feel too high or are chafing, add extra rounds to your yoke.

On round 3 of the body we will shift the location of the seam slightly so that it stays neatly along one side of the body. 

And here we go with Week 2!

Free crochet circular yoke pullover sweater pattern

The Body

After ensuring that your yoke rests just below armpit level:

Step 1

CH 10 (11, 12, 13, 14)(15, 16, 18, 19), *SK 27 (28, 29, 31, 35)(40, 45, 46, 46), DC 43 (49, 53, 59, 65)(70, 75, 80, 86)*, CH 8 (9, 10, 11, 12)(13, 14, 16, 17), rep *, join with a SL ST to the 2nd CH from the start of the round. <86 (98, 107, 118, 130)(140, 152, 161, 172)DCs>

Try on your sweater here to see how the CHs feel under your arms. If they are too high or feel like they may chafe, go back and add an extra round or two to the yoke, or until desired length is reached.

Step 2

CH 2. DC into each DC and each CH around. Join with a SL ST. <102 (116, 127, 140, 154)(166, 180, 193, 206)>  

Step 3

To move your “seam” to the centre of the underarm, SL ST across 4 (4, 5, 5, 6)(6, 7, 8, 8). To keep this seam as invisible as possible please see this blog post here and refer to the section on DCs in the round. I recommend option 1 under double crochet. 

Step 4

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST. <86 (98, 107, 118, 130)(140, 152, 161, 172)DCs>

Step 5

Repeat step 4 until your sweater is desired length. To keep the striping in pattern I recommend ending after 35, 39, 44, or 49 rounds since the neckline. Fasten off.

Step 6

Work your surface slip stitches in whichever frequency you would like (just write down the round number so you can re-create it on the sleeves) or after rounds 11, 14, 17, 20, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 44, and 49 if you are following the design in the sample sweater.

Thats all for this week! Short and sweet in instruction – but lengthy in time to create. Please keep posting photos of your works in progress using #crochetershavemorefun to be featured or to win this weeks $20 gift card prize! Last week’s winner will be announced in our Instagram stories today. 

See you next week!

Courtney

Ivy Sweater Crochet-a-long Week 3

Welcome to the third and final week of the crochet-a-long. It is time for *drumroll*: sleeve island! 

The first round can be tricky and many people wonder why we double crochet two stitches together in the “corners”. This is because if you don’t you can get a bit of a hole on the front and back in the armpit area. It helps it look more cohesive!

I love trying on my sweaters after every few rounds of the sleeves to get the fit exactly as I like it. The pattern suggests when to begin decreases and how often to do them, but the perfect sleeve for me isn’t necessarily the perfect sleeve for you.

You are also welcome to adjust the length of your sleeves – t-shirt? SURE! 3/4? Why not? Full length? Go for it! You’re in the driver’s seat here. My only suggestion is to end on a round that has a slip stitch stripe after it so you finish with a stripe at the end of your sleeve.

Happy crocheting and remember to use #crochetershavemorefun and tag us so we can see your progress!

Sleeves

Round 1 

Attach yarn to the centre-most CH in armpit. CH 2, DC into same CH, DC to the last CH, DC2tog across last CH and the side of the ST from the body (see photo). DC into each ST around sleeve. DC2tog across the side of the ST from the body and the first CH in the armpit, DC into each remaining CH. Join with a SL ST. <35 (37, 39, 42, 47)(53, 59, 62, 63)>

Crochet top down sweater pattern attaching sleeves

Note

To keep the seam on your sleeve as invisible and straight as possible follow the same method suggested for the body. I also recommend doing the surface slip stitches as you go (it’s much easier this way), on the same rounds you did for the body.

Round 2

CH 2. DC around. Join with a SL ST.

Round 3+

Repeat round 2 until sleeve is past the fullest part of your bicep. If you’d prefer the sleeve to be more fitted on your bicep proceed to the decrease round sooner.

Decrease Round

CH 2. DC2tog, DC around to last two STS, DC2tog. Join with a SL ST.

Remainder of Sleeve

Complete alternating two repeats of round 2 and then one decrease round until sleeve is desired length. I recommend ending on rounds 35, 39, 44, 49, or 54 to keep the striping equal.

Second Sleeve

Repeat all sleeve instructions for second sleeve, ensuring you complete the same number of decreases in the same locations as the first sleeve.

Surface Slip Stitches

If you have not already, creat the surface slip stiches on the same rounds that you did for the body so the stripes line up and appear even. I tend to make my sleeves longer than my body section so I added one extra row of striping at the end that was not on the sleeves. 

If you want your striping to resemble the sample you should slip stitch after these rounds (for all that apply): 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 14, 17, 20, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39, 44, and 49.

Now fasten off all weave in all ends! You’re done!

I cannot believe that’s the last of this crochet-a-long but don’t worry we have more planned for the future!

Once again, remember to tag us  in your WIP and final photos of Ivy and use #crochetershavemorefun to win the $20 gift card this week.

Thank you all for participating!

Happy hooking,

Courtney

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *